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Wiring Details



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Engineering a Street Rod


Engineering a 1934 Pro Street Rod



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Lots of Wires

That is your first impression on what appears to be a daunting task.  However if you take your time and plan your work it is not a difficult job and can be fun.  A Painless Wiring harness and fuse block were used.  Although a lot of additional custom wiring was needed, their standard system  is a very good investment. 

Make a Wiring Diagram

The "Stereo Wall"  required extensive wiring.  Four 24 x 18 sheets showed all wire routing, including those for the Painless system.   A diagram is not provide with the Painless product. However, laying out their harness and using an Ohm meter provided 98% of the connections.  A call to Painless defined the rest.

Under Dash Wiring

If you thought the top photo looked messy (it showed the Painless fuse panel attached with epoxy to the firewall using a fabricated mounting board)  the photo to the left shows the area above that!  It's the Dakota Digital dash control box.  You can see one of the many terminal strips  used to keep the wires neat.  



Extensive custom wiring was required in the rear for the Stereo Wall ; Dakota Digital Remote Control box ; Optima Battery; Alarm System; Remote Starter Solenoid and Electronic Antenna.  Because of the distances,  it's wise to use some power relays (shown with white labels)  A number of fuses were needed and two small  6 fuse panels were used.   The relays keep wires carrying power short and allow small mini switches to active high power consuming devices.


These  photos show some of the  elaborate wiring in the rear.  Use a lot of twist ties as you go along.  A roll of twist tie material,  bought from the "Dollar Store" worked fine. You can untwist and add another wire and use nylon wire ties when you're finished.  They are inexpensive and keep you your work neat. 

To route the many wires from the front to the rear  and to the doors, wood strip channels were epoxied to the floor  and covered with 1/16 thick aluminum .  This is all covered by the floor insulation and carpet. 


The door wires were simply routed  along the lower hinge.  You can see the clamp  fabricated and covered with shrink tubing.  Small screw threads were drilled and taped into the hinge. So the wires would not bind in the rear  panel,  a light spring was installed  that keeps the wires clear and untangled.  Clever and inexpensive.


The spring was attached to the wire bundle coning from the door along the bottom door hinge.  The other end is attached to the body behind the interior body panel.  It lays flat and keeps the wires from tangling when the door is closed

Employed a special circuit so a Backup Horn would sound when the Lokar shifter reverse switch energized the two 55 Watt Backup Lights (and rear fog lights.)  A Dash Switch can also turn on the Rear Fog Lights without the horn sounding!  Just need a Diode.

A circuit was used to activate the red light on the Billet Specialties License Frame to perform two functions.  The light is very bright when used as a third brake light.  However an added running light would also be useful.  A resistor was added (of the correct resistance and wattage) to reduce the light output for a running light. A connection was also made to the 3rd brake light controller to proved full voltage when both brake lights were activated (and not with a single turn signal.)  Note the two diodes used to prevent energizing the light at the wrong time.

Have Fun!!

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We're "hitchhiking" on our commercial web site to bring you this information on 1934 Street Rod   If you or a friend have a MIG Welder (also called a Wire Welder, GMAW, etc) visit our site on How To Save Shielding Gas Waste. You can reduce the number of times and the effort required to have your shielding gas cylinder filled in half!  Just click on the  This Link.  You can return to this site by using the  Links at the bottom of the "CAR BUFFS" page.

$ave money and get better weld starts!

If you make a lot of short welds and weld tacks you can probably reduce your gas usage by 50% or more.  Also fewer trips to have the cylinder filled. 

See these other pages for more details:


Modifying an 850 Holley for a ZZ 502 Chevy Big Block
Cooling a Chevy ZZ 502 Big Block in a Street Rod
 Adding 250 HP Nitrous to a ZZ 502 Big Block
MIG Gas Saver System $aves money !
3 Inch Stainless Exhaust System 
"Building the Body"  
"Construction Details Index"    
"Building Dash Extension"
"Building Stereo Wall"  
"Building Transmission Tunnel"  
"Fabricating the Interior"
"Other Fabricated Parts"
"Other Features"

Click to See a List of Vendors Used to

 Build This ProStreet '34


"WARNING: "Weld Safely"